Thursday, June 26, 2008

EcoLog14 - To Market to Market

Day 7 – To Market to Market and Over the Bridges – 25 June 08 (15km walk)

A very quiet start to the day with time to catch up on emails etc. We left for our walk at 2.30pm having negotiated a fare of 40Yuan with the latest friendly taxi driver. He delivered us to the spot at the end of the bridge that the bus had dropped us off in the middle of, so we re-traced our steps across this first bridge. There are a series of five bridges forming floodgates or canal locks all dividing a large lake and wetland area. The journey across the bridges was noisy and dusty. The bridges were pretty potholed and there was no foot path. We just shared the side of the road with the various motorised vehicles crossing.

The bridges were linking islands. The road surface on these islands disintegrated into seriously pot holed thoroughfares. It was quite unpleasant walking in the dust swept up by the vehicles whose drivers continued to honk loudly for reasons only known to them. Sometimes to encourage other vehicles out of the way, other times to let us know that they were there…right beside us! Having said that, there were a lot of trucks (most carrying coal) that didn’t honk so the horn honking could have been a lot worse!

Just before the final bridge which was actually over a canal lock, we came across a colourful market. This consisted of a row of trucks with colourful umbrellas selling caged live ducks, geese and pheasants. There were also buckets of live fish, eels, and turtles for sale along with many different varieties of eggs, either in their shells or buried in mud.

We also saw on two separate occasions small trucks passing with live dogs caged together in three tiers of cages. It was quite obvious where these poor guys were off to!!!

It was a relief to get off this road and wander alongside the bank of another canal. Great to have the peace and tranquillity of the countryside once again! We soon came to a deviation in the track where a family had a cotton-bleaching enterprise underway. The smell of the chemicals they were using was very strong and they were certainly not keen on any photos being snapped of their operation. Also came across a Chicken farm in this area. At first we couldn’t work out what the stench was and then we spied the hens in their pens!

The vehicle track became a small path meandering along the ever diminishing embankment whose sides were being constantly eroded by the farmers alongside the canal taking the soil. One wonders what would happen if the canal system flooded…serious loss of housing as the farm houses funnily enough were very close to the eroded banks. We came to a bridge and crossed to the other side of the canal as the path seemed more travelled on that side…until that is, we came to a perpendicular canal that we could not cross. Detoured down this a few hundred metres and low and behold came to a railway line that we could use to cross over the side waterways. We followed the railway for a bit and then went back to following the canal which was slowly dwindling to a small creek. After a while the track ran out and we found ourselves walking literally through the planted crops. Finally made it to a commune where once again we were instant celebrities. Konomi managed to negotiate a 15Yuan ride in a tuk tuk like vehicle (three wheel motorbike with a box for passengers on the back) down to the junction of the road straight back to the bridges so that we could negotiate a taxi or bus ride back to Peixian.

We arrived here at about 7.30pm right in the middle of dinner time for the locals. The road junction was crowded with trucks, bikes, cycles and outdoor “restaurants” in the middle of the road and of course people, people and more people. Merrin and I provided the decoy so that Paul, Yuji and Konomi could try to find someone to negotiate a fare with. They finally found someone who was willing to drive us across 4 of the bridges for 50Yuan. He drove us to the shop where had ended yesterday’s walk and here we convinced one of the family members to drive us back to Peixian for a further 50Yuan.

Grow well
Dr Merrin

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