North Sulawesi Eco Adventures

Flying into Jakarta it was nice to see a mix of tall buildings and farming happening together. We did get to experience the madness of the traffic with a trip to the Ragunan Zoo (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ragunan_Zoo) taking 3 hours instead of the normal 40 minutes. What an amazing large zoo in a city. To have the chance to be personally introduced to the Orangutan Oki and Saima by Dr Willie Smits was very special. Just like meeting different humans the different Orangutan gave you different welcomes!

Our time at Cico in Bogor (http://www.mitrakonservasi.co.id) was way too short to enjoy the peaceful setting. Gave some toys to Dudung to share with the local children at their English classes. Seeing large bats flying around the adventure tower was nice that night before dinner.

Arriving at the guest house within the Tasikoki centre (www.tasikoki.org) was very nice as we looked across the forest and mangroves out to a blue sea and reef. We shared with them many tools, food and toys for both the animals and volunteers.  Thanks to the staff at Garuda Indonesia in Hong Kong for giving us some complimentary luggage space to take these extra items.  After a pleasant lunch with Denny and Melissa we were given a brief orientation of the Centre and shown the beach and local fishing village. The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the very spacious and comfortable room that had superb views from the balcony. We ventured up the 4 storey watch tower, that has 360 degree views, with Simon Purser the animal program manager to hear about the history and current status of the rescued animal and birds. For dinner we headed off with the volunteers to a restaurant near Bitung to experience the local meatball noodle dish.

Awoke at 5:15 to watch the sunrise over the ocean. There were a few clouds to display the beautiful colours. The mirror glass sea was too tempting so off I headed for a snorkel before breakfast. The range of colourful fish and corals was more than I had expected from the black sand beach. In amongst the sea grass bed I was a beautiful black and white striped sea snake. During the snorkel the local fishing boats were returning home and happily waving out for a photo. The rest of the morning was spent relaxing and resting. After lunch Melissa showed us around the different animal cages, explaining the challenges of each species being returned to their home areas. In the late afternoon I conducted an Awakening the Dreamer symposium (http://www.pachamama.org/workshops/awakening-the-dreamer-symposium) for 20 of the staff and volunteers. Then enjoyed dinner with them and had further discussions. Watched the moon rise over the ocean before heading to bed.

Sunday morning I walked down the beach to the wharf, enjoyed finding different hermit crabs along the way. The snorkelling off the wharf was different to that near the fishing village. There was a great range of fish as they had more places to hide in the small canyons along the reef edge.  After lunchtime we began our trip to Tangkoko-Duasudara Nature Reserve, which was a 45 minute drive taking us north of Bitung. With our guide from Tangkoko Conservation Education (http://www.facebook.com/tangkokoconservationeducation) we saw Red-knobbed Hornbill, Cuscus, Squirrel, Tarsier (the smallest primates in the world – only about a fist size), Crested Black Macaque (Macaca nigra) all before the moon rose above the ocean. Dinner at a very local restaurant and we were driven home under the moonlight. Sat out on the balcony having a beer, watching and listening to the animals and birds which included the Babirusa (like a cross between a pig and a deer) settling down under the balcony.

After breakfast we were driven back to Manado Harbour. Onto a small covered boat for the 30 minute trip to Bunaken Island Resort (http://www.bunaken.nl).  What pleasant surprise.  A beachfront bungalow looking out across the white sand to the coral reef and on to deep blue water.  After a yummy lunch in the open air dining area I went off for my first scuba dive in about 15 years. The dive location is called Turtle city and we cruised along the wall at 16m looking down into the deep blue of another 80 m below us.  Saw turtle sleeping, eagle ray swimming and thousands of colourful fish and corals. Back to watch the sunset from the balcony before sharing dinner and stories with an Australian family that had been working with street kids that live near the landfills in Manado and Jakarta.

After a morning snorkel along the reef in front of the resort and breakfast we were back on the boat to Manado.  Spent a couple of hours walking around the town centre.  Great to come across a guy carrying 30 fresh coconuts on his bamboo pole.  He cut one open and made the spoon out of the husk for Rp5000 (USD0.5 HKD4), no plastic waste from that drink. Melisa picked us up and we started our way up to Tomohon on the highlands.  Lunch was at the amazing Gardenia (http://www.gardeniacountryinn.com) having organic local food while looking out at the volcanoes.  Onwards to the Masarang Palm Sugar Factory (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Masarang_Foundation) to see the operation and buy some sugar.  What a great community project that uses geothermal steam boil the sugar palm sap.  A quick visit to the nearby sulphur lake and to see traditional wooden houses being built.  Had dinner back at Gardenia before starting our 90 min drive to Lalumpe Beach to see the turtle hatchery.  What a wonderful surprise to see 12 Olive Ridley hatchlings trying to make their way to the beach.  Opened the gate and watched most of them get to the water.  One became dinner for a crab family.  A short walk along the beach to the local village who help protect the 5 different turtles that nest in the area.  Back to Tasikoki at 1am for a couple of hours sleep before our ride to the airport came at 4am.  So slept most of the way back to Hong Kong very happy to have seen so many great places in North Sulawesi.